For me, the lockdown was an unmissable opportunity to get food cooking slowly in the background in-between bouts of working on my laptop – especially baking. And, although I have devised and tweaked quite a few of my own recipes, over the years, I’m always on the lookout for the ‘best’ example of something a bit easy and ‘everyday’. I like Nigella’s recipes for that. I found it in ‘My Mother’s Irish Tea Loaf’ recipe on Jan Egan’s website thewatchfulcook.co.uk @TheWatchfulCook . Unlike Bara Brith, its sober Welsh cousin, hers was boozy and a bit more celebratory, while still retaining that homely tannic flavour of the tea.